A crowd of aurora watchers beside parked cars under a wide green aurora, one holding up a lit phone screen

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How to photograph the northern lights on your phone

By Deepak R · Updated 23 September 2026

Location not recorded. Photo: Bart van Griensven, Unsplash License · 1-second exposure on an iPhone 14 Pro: brighter than the eye sees

Turn the flash off, rest the phone on something solid, and let night mode take a long exposure. Your phone will show brighter green than your eyes see. That's normal, and it's also a handy way to check whether that pale band is aurora or cloud.

Key takeaways

  • Give your eyes at least 20 minutes in the dark away from streetlights, and use a red light rather than a white torch.
  • Prop the phone on a tripod, rock or backpack and use a 3-second self-timer, because keeping it still matters more than anything else.
  • When the aurora is bright and moving fast, use a shorter exposure, because a long one turns sharp curtains into a smooth glow.
  • Cold drains batteries, so keep the phone in an inside pocket between shots and seal it in a bag before going indoors.

Why the phone sees more than you do

In short At aurora brightness your eyes rely mostly on rods, which can't see colour, while the camera keeps its shutter open for seconds and builds up the colour.

Your eyes

Two kinds of light sensor

  • Cones see colour but need plenty of light
  • Rods work in near-darkness but can't see colour
  • At aurora brightness you're mostly seeing with rods, so a typical display looks like a pale grey or silvery band that moves
  • They win on movement, which a long exposure smears away

The camera

No such problem

  • It keeps the shutter open for seconds, not a fraction of a second, and piles up every bit of light
  • The green from oxygen, and sometimes the red and pink, build into strong colour that nobody standing beside it saw
  • It wins on colour

Both views are true. How much colour you see depends on how bright the display is.

What you see, and what the phone sees

In short On faint, common displays your eyes see a pale grey or grey-white band while the phone shows green; only on the good nights do your eyes see unmistakable green.

Brightness scale and descriptions: the International Brightness Coefficient, as set out by Australia's Bureau of Meteorology Space Weather Services.
Brightness (IBC scale)Looks likeTo your eyesOn the phoneHow often
IThe Milky WayA pale grey band, can pass for cloudClearly greenCommon
IIThin moonlit cloudGrey-white, a hint of greenVivid greenCommon on active nights
IIIMoonlit cumulus cloudUnmistakably green, with shape and motionGreen with pink or magenta edgesThe good nights
IVAs bright as the full moon; casts shadowsStrong colour, the whole sky movingSpectacularVery rare
Green and violet aurora rays rising behind a silhouetted line of spruce trees
Location not recorded. Photo: Vincent Guth, Unsplash License · 10-second exposure: brighter than the eye sees

Step by step, on any phone

In short Get away from lights, turn the flash off, keep the phone completely still, use night mode, focus on the brightest part and choose the exposure for the night.

  1. Get away from lights, and let your eyes adjust

    Streetlights and car headlights wash out the aurora for your eyes and the camera alike. Give your eyes at least 20 minutes in the dark, and use a red light, not a white torch, if you need one.

  2. Turn the flash off

    The flash can't reach the sky; it only lights the snow in front of you. On a Google Pixel it also stops the camera's night mode: Google says that when the flash is on, Automatic Night Sight doesn't work.

  3. Keep the phone completely still

    This matters more than anything else. Use a small tripod, or prop the phone against a rock, a backpack or a car roof. Google's advice for night-sky shots: prop it on a steady surface or tripod, don't hold it, and in wind, move it closer to the ground or shield it. A 3-second self-timer stops your finger shaking the shot.

  4. Use night mode

    On iPhone and Pixel it turns on by itself in low light. Press the shutter and hold still until the capture finishes. The phone's own steps are below.

  5. Point it at the brightest part

    If the result is soft, tap on the brightest part of the aurora, or a bright star, before you shoot, so the phone isn't trying to focus on darkness. Include some foreground: a tree line, a cabin, a person. It gives the sky scale.

  6. Pick the exposure for the night

    A longer exposure gives a brighter picture. But when the aurora is bright and moving fast, a long exposure turns sharp curtains into a smooth glow. On those nights, a shorter exposure keeps the shapes.

  7. Film it too

    A real-time video is the closest thing to what your eyes saw, because a video frame can't be a long exposure. Time-lapse does the opposite: it squeezes an hour of slow drift into seconds of dancing.

  8. Look after the phone in the cold

    Cold drains batteries fast. Keep the phone in an inside pocket between shots. Before you go back indoors, put it in a sealed bag so the lens doesn't fog as it warms.

On an iPhone

In short Night mode turns on automatically in low light; you can choose the exposure through Camera Controls, then hold the iPhone still or use a tripod.

Apple's own instructions, for iPhone models that support Night mode:

On a Google Pixel

In short Use Night Sight with the flash off, and set the phone on a stand or tripod so it switches to Astrophotography mode by itself.

Google's instructions for Pixel phones:

Other Android phones

Many have a night mode of their own; check your phone maker's help pages. The same rules apply: flash off, phone still, and give it time.

A band of green aurora behind tall spruce trees and snow-covered cabins in Fairbanks, Alaska
Fairbanks, Alaska. Photo: Karthik Sridharan, CC0 · 10-second exposure: brighter than the eye sees

With a camera: the basics

A camera with manual controls and a wide lens gives you more control, but the same three rules apply: a tripod, no flash, and a long enough exposure. The trade-off is always the same.

Longer shutter, higher ISO

  • Pulls in more light and colour
  • Blurs movement

Shorter shutter

  • Keeps the curtain shapes
  • Needs a brighter aurora or a higher ISO

The aurora photos we catalogued while sourcing images for this site show the range.

WhereExposureISOWhat it shows
Abisko2-second6400Keeps the curtain structure sharp
Tromsø4-second400Worked because the display itself was bright
Kirkjufell, Iceland15-second8000The other end: the most stretched picture in the set, far brighter than the eye would see

Why every aurora photo on this site shows its shutter speed. A 15-second exposure can make a faint grey arc look like a green firestorm. So under each aurora photo we print how long the shutter was open. The shorter it is, the closer the picture is to what you'd see with your own eyes.

Photographing the aurora on a phone: FAQs

Can an iPhone photograph the northern lights?

Yes. On iPhones with Night mode, it turns on automatically in low light. Turn the flash off, keep the phone still, ideally on a tripod, and let it finish the exposure.

Why do the northern lights look greener on my phone than in real life?

Your eyes see mostly with colour-blind rod cells in the dark, while the phone collects light for several seconds. A faint aurora that looks grey to you shows clearly green on the phone.

Can you see the northern lights with the naked eye?

Yes. Faint displays look pale grey or grey-green and can pass for cloud. Brighter ones are clearly green and move. The very brightest, which are rare, show pink and red edges.

Do I need a tripod to photograph the aurora on a phone?

Not strictly, but it helps more than anything else. Propping the phone on a rock, a bag or a car roof works too. Both Apple and Google recommend a tripod for night shots.

Should I use the flash?

No. It can't light the sky, and on a Google Pixel, Automatic Night Sight doesn't work while the flash is on.

Where and when to point the camera

Sources (5)